History · Corner

Capitals — the cities a throne has crossed.

From the Orkhon steppe of Ötüken to the bare plateau of Ankara, the cities where the Turkic state has held its throne for a thousand years. In each, the trace of a dynasty, the weariness of a capital, the stone of a new beginning.

17 capitals · a thousand years
  1. — Capital 01 —

    Ötüken

    Mongolia · Orkhon-Selenga basin

    An image from the capital of Ötüken: The Orkhon Valley — steppe, otağ, silence.
    The Orkhon Valley — steppe, otağ, silence.
    Held the throne
    M.Ö. 200 – M.S. 745
    Capital of
    • Asian Huns (Xiongnu)
    • First Türk Khaganate
    • Second Türk Khaganate
    • Early Uyghur Khaganate
    Monuments & memory
    The Orkhon inscriptions, the khaganal ordu, the ancestral land of the Türk people

    The sacred heart of the steppe Turkic state. Not a city but a valley — where the Orkhon and Selenga flow, where the mountains drop low, where the khagans pitched the otağ. The stelae of Tonyukuk, Bilge and Kül Tigin were raised on this soil.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  2. — Capital 02 —

    Karabalghasun

    Ordu-Balık

    Mongolia · Orkhon Valley (Khar Balgas)

    An image from the capital of Karabalghasun: Ordu-Balık — the earthen ramparts of the Uyghur capital that still stand.
    Ordu-Balık — the earthen ramparts of the Uyghur capital that still stand.
    Held the throne
    744 – 840
    Capital of
    • Uyghur Khaganate
    Monuments & memory
    The trilingual Karabalghasun inscription (Turkic, Sogdian, Chinese), the khaganal palace, the Manichaean temples

    The first great walled Turkic city — stone ramparts and earthen palaces raised on the open steppe. It rose as the official capital of Manichaeism; its walls climbed to twenty-five metres. The Kyrgyz razed it in 840.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  3. — Capital 03 —

    Balasagun

    Kuz Ordu

    Kyrgyzstan · Chuy Valley (Burana site)

    An image from the capital of Balasagun: The Burana Tower — the minaret left to us from the Kara-Khanid capital.
    The Burana Tower — the minaret left to us from the Kara-Khanid capital.
    Held the throne
    X. – XII. yüzyıl
    Capital of
    • Kara-Khanid Khanate (centre)
    • Qara Khitai (later)
    Monuments & memory
    The Burana Tower (an eleventh-century minaret), birthplace of the Kutadgu Bilig

    The central capital of the first great Turkic state to embrace Islam. Yūsuf Khāṣṣ Ḥājib wrote the Kutadgu Bilig here in 1069 and presented it to the Kara-Khanid khan — the foundational monument of Turkic political thought rose from this city.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  4. — Capital 04 —

    Ghazni

    Afghanistan · Ghazni Province

    An image from the capital of Ghazni: The tomb of Sultan Mahmud — the surviving emblem of Ghazni.
    The tomb of Sultan Mahmud — the surviving emblem of Ghazni.
    Held the throne
    977 – 1186
    Capital of
    • Ghaznavid Empire
    Monuments & memory
    The tomb of Sultan Mahmud, the minarets of Ghazni, the court of Firdawsī and Bīrūnī

    In the reign of Sultan Mahmud, Ghazni was reckoned the capital of the world. Gold, marble and scholars carried back from the Indian campaigns piled up here; Firdawsī recited the Shāhnāma at this court, Bīrūnī wrote his Kitāb al-Hind in this city. The first imperial laboratory of the Turko-Islamic synthesis.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  5. — Capital 05 —

    Isfahan

    Iran · Isfahan Province

    An image from the capital of Isfahan: Isfahan — the central square of the Turko-Iranian urban tradition.
    Isfahan — the central square of the Turko-Iranian urban tradition.
    Held the throne
    1051 – 1118
    Capital of
    • Great Seljuk Empire
    Monuments & memory
    The Seljuk domes of the Jāmiʿ-i Atīq (Friday Mosque), the Niẓāmiyya of Niẓām al-Mulk

    From Tughril Beg's conquest to Sanjar, the seat of the Great Seljuks. Sultan Malikshāh and his vizier Niẓām al-Mulk governed from here; the Niẓāmiyya colleges radiated from this city across the whole Islamic world. The four-īwān plan of the Jāmiʿ-i Atīq became the master pattern of Turko-Iranian architecture.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  6. — Capital 06 —

    Ürgench

    Gürgenç · Köhne Ürgenç

    Turkmenistan · Konye-Urgench

    An image from the capital of Ürgench: The Konye-Urgench minaret — the last witness of pre-Mongol Khwarazm.
    The Konye-Urgench minaret — the last witness of pre-Mongol Khwarazm.
    Held the throne
    1097 – 1220
    Capital of
    • Khwarazmian Empire
    Monuments & memory
    The Konye-Urgench minaret, the mausoleum of Türabek Khanum, the hearth of the Khwarazmshah dynasty

    The capital of the Khwarazmshahs and the northern node of the Silk Road. Under ʿAlāʾ al-Dīn Muḥammad it stood as one of the great cities of the Islamic world; in 1220 the six-month siege by Genghis Khan's sons left it ruined. The course of the river was diverted and the water turned upon the city.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  7. — Capital 07 —

    Konya

    Konia · İkonion

    Türkiye · Central Anatolia

    An image from the capital of Konya: The green dome of Mawlānā's mausoleum — the spiritual legacy of the Anatolian Seljuks.
    The green dome of Mawlānā's mausoleum — the spiritual legacy of the Anatolian Seljuks.
    Held the throne
    1097 – 1308
    Capital of
    • Sultanate of Rum
    Monuments & memory
    The Alâeddin Mosque, the Karatay and İnce Minareli madrasas, the Mausoleum of Mawlānā

    The first Turkic capital founded in Anatolia. Under ʿAlāʾ al-Dīn Kayqubād I, architecture, poetry and Sufism reached their height. Mawlānā Jalāl al-Dīn Rūmī came here, lived here, and was buried here; the Mathnawī was written in the dust of this city.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  8. — Capital 08 —

    Sarai Berke

    Yeni Saray

    Russia · Volgograd oblast, lower Volga

    An image from the capital of Sarai Berke: Sarai Berke — a historical depiction of the Golden Horde capital.
    Sarai Berke — a historical depiction of the Golden Horde capital.
    Held the throne
    1240'lar – 1395
    Capital of
    • Golden Horde
    Monuments & memory
    The reigns of Berke and Özbeg Khans, the apogee of the Turko-Islamic steppe city

    A steppe metropolis raised on the Volga, astride the northern Silk Road. With Berke Khan's embrace of Islam it became a Muslim Turko-Mongol capital; under Özbeg Khan its population reached the hundreds of thousands. Timur razed it in 1395 — what remains is open ground.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  9. — Capital 09 —

    Samarkand

    Uzbekistan · Zarafshan Valley

    An image from the capital of Samarkand: The Registan — the three-madrasa face of Timur's city.
    The Registan — the three-madrasa face of Timur's city.
    Held the throne
    1370 – 1505
    Capital of
    • Timurid Empire
    Monuments & memory
    The Registan square, the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, the Shāh-i Zinda, the Ulugh Beg Observatory

    Timur's world-capital. From every campaign the craftsmen, architects and scholars were brought back to this one city; the Registan, the Bibi-Khanym Mosque and the Shāh-i Zinda complex are the stones of his triumph. The observatory of his grandson Ulugh Beg stood as the Turko-Islamic summit of astronomy.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  10. — Capital 10 —

    Herat

    Afghanistan · Herat Province

    An image from the capital of Herat: The Herat Citadel — the inner fortress of the Timurid city, still standing.
    The Herat Citadel — the inner fortress of the Timurid city, still standing.
    Held the throne
    1405 – 1507
    Capital of
    • Timurid Empire (under Shāhrukh and Husayn Bayqara)
    Monuments & memory
    The Gawhar Shād complex; the circle of Jāmī, Nawāʾī and Bihzād

    The centre of post-Timurid civilisation. The mosque of Shāhrukh's consort Gawhar Shād, the court of Husayn Bayqara, the ghazals of Jāmī, the miniatures of Bihzād, the Chagatai of ʿAlī Shīr Nawāʾī — all of this exploded in a single generation of this city. The Florence of the East.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  11. — Capital 11 —

    Tabriz

    Iran · East Azerbaijan

    An image from the capital of Tabriz: The Blue Mosque — the tile-work mastery of the Aq Qoyunlu age.
    The Blue Mosque — the tile-work mastery of the Aq Qoyunlu age.
    Held the throne
    XIV. – XVI. yüzyıl
    Capital of
    • Ilkhanate (Turko-Mongol)
    • Qara Qoyunlu
    • Aq Qoyunlu
    • Early Safavid
    Monuments & memory
    The Blue Mosque (15th century), traces of the Aq Qoyunlu and early Safavid courts

    The capital of the Turko-Iranian frontier. The seat of Aq Qoyunlu Uzun Ḥasan and then of Shah Ismāʿīl; a city where Turkish and Persian were spoken in the same court, where schools of calligraphy and miniature flourished side by side. After Çaldıran (1514) it lay too close to the Ottoman frontier, and the capital was withdrawn.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  12. — Capital 12 —

    Söğüt

    Türkiye · Bilecik, north-west Anatolia

    An image from the capital of Söğüt: The tomb of Osman Gazi — the first stone of a dynasty.
    The tomb of Osman Gazi — the first stone of a dynasty.
    Held the throne
    1281 – 1326
    Capital of
    • Ottoman Beylik (founding years)
    Monuments & memory
    The tombs of Ertuğrul Gazi and Osman Gazi, the Domaniç-Söğüt highlands

    The wooden encampment where a state began. The frontier beylik of Ertuğrul Gazi and Osman Gazi — not the hearth of a dynasty alone, but the first hearth of a six-hundred-year empire. The tomb of one bey here remains the single witness to the world-state that grew from it.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  13. — Capital 13 —

    Bursa

    Hüdâvendigâr

    Türkiye · Marmara region, foot of Mt Uludağ

    An image from the capital of Bursa: The Green Mosque — the tiled face of early Ottoman aesthetics.
    The Green Mosque — the tiled face of early Ottoman aesthetics.
    Held the throne
    1326 – 1366
    Capital of
    • Ottoman State (first capital)
    Monuments & memory
    The Green Mosque and Green Tomb, the Ulu Cami, the early Ottoman sultanic mausolea

    The first true Ottoman capital. The tombs of Orhan Gazi, Murad I and Yıldırım Bayezid are the childhood stones of the state. The Green Mosque, the Green Tomb and the Ulu Cami — the architectural laboratory where Seljuk memory became Ottoman settlement.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  14. — Capital 14 —

    Edirne

    Hadrianopolis

    Türkiye · Thrace, the three-rivers crossing

    An image from the capital of Edirne: The Selimiye Mosque — the masterpiece bequeathed to the old Rumelian capital.
    The Selimiye Mosque — the masterpiece bequeathed to the old Rumelian capital.
    Held the throne
    1366 – 1453
    Capital of
    • Ottoman State (capital in Rumelia)
    Monuments & memory
    The Selimiye Mosque (Sinan's masterpiece), the Üç Şerefeli Mosque, the Eski Cami

    The Ottoman capital that opened the gate to Europe. From Murad I to the boyhood of Fātih, the state was governed from here; from here Mehmed II rode out to Constantinople. Two centuries later, Mimar Sinan presented his ripest work — the Selimiye — not to another city but to this former capital.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  15. — Capital 15 —

    Istanbul

    Konstantiniyye · Dersaâdet

    Türkiye · Two continents, three seas

    An image from the capital of Istanbul: Topkapı Palace — the imperial seat of four hundred years of state.
    Topkapı Palace — the imperial seat of four hundred years of state.
    Held the throne
    1453 – 1922
    Capital of
    • Ottoman Empire
    • Ottoman Caliphate
    Monuments & memory
    Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, the Süleymaniye, the Sultanahmet, Dolmabahçe

    The Ottoman capital for four hundred and sixty-nine years, the heart of an empire that ruled across three continents. From the conquest of Fātih to the departure of Vahideddin, here the decisions were taken, the documents drawn, the buildings raised. From Topkapı to Dolmabahçe, the chain of a memory.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  16. — Capital 16 —

    Delhi

    Şâhcihânâbâd

    India · banks of the Yamuna

    An image from the capital of Delhi: The Red Fort — the stone the Bāburid line raised over India.
    The Red Fort — the stone the Bāburid line raised over India.
    Held the throne
    1526 – 1857
    Capital of
    • Mughal Empire (Turko-Mongol dynasty)
    Monuments & memory
    The Red Fort (Lāl Qila), the Jama Masjid, the tomb of Humāyūn

    The Turko-Mongol capital that Bābur founded, Akbar enlarged, and Shāh Jahān rebuilt as his own. A world-city raised on Indian soil by a dynasty that still spoke Chagatai — a memory that enters through the gate of the Red Fort and ends in the courtyard of the Jama Masjid.

    — Wikimedia Commons
  17. — Capital 17 —

    Ankara

    Angora · Engürü

    Türkiye · Central Anatolian plateau

    An image from the capital of Ankara: Anıtkabir — the central monument of the new capital.
    Anıtkabir — the central monument of the new capital.
    Held the throne
    1923 —
    Capital of
    • Republic of Türkiye
    Monuments & memory
    Anıtkabir, the Grand National Assembly, the Hacı Bayram-ı Velî complex, the Ankara Citadel

    The city through which the empire became a republic. When a new beginning was wanted, separate from the dynastic memory of Istanbul, this ancient citadel of the bare plateau was chosen. From Mustafa Kemal's study to the parliament of today, a young capital of one hundred years.

    — Wikimedia Commons
— Threshold —

The otağ moves, the capital remains. When a throne shifts, it leaves behind not a city alone, but a memory.

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